Food and drink

Staff at L'ortolan in Shinfield which retained its Michelin star
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Michelin joy for starstruck chefs

By Natalie Slater
January 25, 2010

Restaurateurs in and around Reading were celebrating last week as the latest Michelin stars were dished out.

Despite the official announcement not being due until Wednesday, leaks on the internet meant winners found out the news early.

Michelin star glory for Berkshire restaurants

L’ortolan in Shinfield kept hold of its one star rating while The Royal Oak in Paley Street, near Maidenhead, was welcomed into the coveted title alongside The Goose in Britwell Salome in South Oxfordshire and The Harwood Arms in Fulham, which is owned by Mike Robinson of The Pot Kiln in Frilsham in West Berkshire.

“The team deserve all the praise they get,” said L’ortolan’s owner Peter Newman, who was first awarded the status in 2002.

“We are Reading’s only Michelin starred restaurant and one of only 58 outside London. Everyone at L’ortolan works exceptionally hard to maintain the superb quality food and service.

“It is through their commitment and passion that we retain our Michelin star and this latest news tops off a successful 12 months which has seen the restaurant feature on BBC2’s The Great British Menu as well as being recognised as one of the top restaurants in the country in the National Restaurant Awards.”

Meanwhile, The Royal Oak, co-owned by Sir Michael Parkinson and his son Nick, was one of only five restaurants in England to win a new star.

Head chef Dominic Chapman joined the team three years ago.

He said: “Of all the awards we have achieved this really is the icing on the cake, I am absolutely thrilled.”

Nick Parkinson added: “It truly is a well deserved award for the efforts of head chef Dominic Chapman and restaurant manager Mo Gherras and their teams.”

Sir Michael added: “It has always been our aim to have a top quality restaurant not just pie, chips and crisps. We have now achieved what we wanted, an upmarket restaurant and this is really just the start.”

Ryan Simpson, head chef at The Goose, said: “It is a great accolade to have and it would be a lie to say we had not been working towards that standard of food and service.

“The work of my sous chef Liam Trotman deserves a big mention for his hard work and dedication in the kitchen.”

Mr Robinson said he was delighted for the success of The Harwood and thanked his head chef Stephen Williams and co-owner Brett Graham.

He said: “This is the first pub in London to get a Michelin star so it is groundbreaking stuff. At the Pot Kiln our loyal customer base is an award in itself for us, but I really am so pleased for The Harwood.”

It was not so good for The Vineyard in Stockcross, which lost its two stars this year as new chef Daniel Galmiche, formerly of The Forbury in Reading town centre, had not had enough time to make his mark on the restaurant.

nslater@reading-epost.co.uk

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Yet again Mr Cod in Cemetery Junction is overlooked for a Michelin Star. I'm beginning to feel it's personal..........

Mr Toad
27/01/2010 at 04:02

It is great that after all these years in the gastronomic wilderness Reading and its surrounding hinterland is becoming a great place to eat out. In the town center there is Forburys, London Street Brasserie, The Bel & Dragon nd Pepe Sale to name the best. But I will let you into a secret for the best fish and chips in town – Morrison’s in store cafeteria. Absolutely beautiful with lovely fresh moist fish in a fabulous coating of crisp batter and chips to die for and all for less that a fiver. Well done the staff there.

PCWatch, Reading
26/01/2010 at 12:21

Err... no, not at all. But I've had quite a few meals at Myalacarte and always enjoyed it there. It was a great shame when Yasmina won the Apprentice because it suddenly got a lot harder to get a table there without booking about two weeks in advance.

Mr London Street
26/01/2010 at 09:56

is mr london street the apprentice winners (jasmine? my memory has failed me) brother by any chance?

jimmle, Twyf
25/01/2010 at 16:09

Pity about The Vineyard in Stockcross losing its stars - had a brilliant meal there a few years ago. Have also been to The Pot Kiln but felt it was nothing special and very over rated. Would not bother going back. The Crooked Billet is another venue which is very over rated. The food was mediocre and it was a cold and draughty experience because they kept leaving the door open to get the open fire going. Good luck to Sir Michael Parkinson though - he deserves to do well and I hope to visit his restaurant one day.

Interested Reader!
25/01/2010 at 13:18

It still astonishes me that Ortolan does so well. When I went there last week I thought it was very disappointing. The food was technically very competent but not inspiring, the room was fairly soulless and the service didn't approach the standards of other Michelin starred restaurants I've been to. For the money, you could go to Myalacarte one night and Forburys the next and experience food every bit as good with the sort of service you're entitled to expect at that price.