Restaurant Guide

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The Jolly Fryer is a truly excellent fish and chip shop that you should all visit
The Jolly Fryer is a truly excellent fish and chip shop that you should all visit
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Restaurant Review: The Jolly Fryer

By Tom Fahey
January 12, 2012


Back in November I started a blog about what I have for breakfast.

How interesting, you’re probably thinking. Some pictures of semi-burned toast, a daily cuppa, grapefruits caked in sugar and the odd fried egg.

Thanks all the same but I’ll give that one a miss.

Agreed, if that’s your idea of breakfast, please leave well alone.

But few of the things you’ll find on people’s plates first thing in the morning typically grace mine.

I’m a frugal cook, you see. I like to use whatever’s cheap, leftover or available to make tasty food, and I’m not going to let whatever time of day it is stop me.

For those ambivalent enough to mindlessly shovel down the same factory-made, white-carb fuel day-in day-out because they “haven’t got time” to do anything else, well, I’m liberating breakfast on your behalf.

Have you ever stopped to think that perhaps cereal isn’t the highly nutritious, energy-packed start to the day we’ve all been led to believe it is?

Perhaps – and this really is a stab in the dark – it’s actually a way for food manufacturers to make lots of money by adding intensive processing and powerful branding to raw materials that, in their natural state, have no intrinsic profit margin.

Food companies call this “adding value”; doing nutritionally unnecessary things to food to make it appear more desirable, then using a barrage of advertising to get us buying it.

Packet cereals are “fortified” because the lengthy pressure cooking, removal of germ (wholesome nutrient-filled thing not grubby illness-causing thing), dehydration and final high-temperature toasting, strip out many of their natural nutrients.

And yet we still eat them because they have a nice box or because a tiger tells us to.

Perhaps you like to invest in a weekly bag of stone-ground-multi-grain-extra-special-finest and stick two pre-cut pieces in the toaster every day?

Real bread is flour, water, salt and yeast, but Chorleywood bread – the stuff in plastic bags – is a slurry of flour and water aerated by a machine then artificially preserved with additives.

And what about the margarine we slather all over it to save our poor hearts from the evils of butter?

Butter is a natural product that doesn’t make anyone very much money.

Margarine is made by pumping hydrogen into commercially extracted oils that are frequently deodorised to disguise their unpleasant smell, then it’s dyed yellow so we associate it with the butter we probably should be eating and the companies who make it continue to earn a crust.

Speaking of butter, recently I made bubble and squeak with a poached egg and butter sauce for breakfast.

Why did I do this? Not because I’m a butter-militant but because The Jolly Fryer’s obscenely large chip portions are impossible to finish in one sitting, leaving me with a glut of fat, fluffy and pristinely blonde chips far too good to sling in the bin.

Instead, I slung them, chopped up, into mashed potato and cabbage, shaped into patties and fried, to make a deliriously good breakfast in all of 10 minutes.

And here you see the point of this morning-meal digression.

The Jolly Fryer is a truly excellent fish and chip shop that you should all visit.

The fish is, thankfully, fried to order. The flakes are slippery and moist, actually flaking rather than disintegrating into so much fat-laden mulch.

The batter crunches but is light and free of excess grease thanks to regularly changed fryer oil, and the portions are generous.

The mushy peas are made properly, and if your vegetarian is getting testy over a supper that fundamentally excludes them, The Fryer does a nice line in vegetable fritters.

Plus you can tell this is a friendly, family business by the free pot of tartare sauce given away with every order.

OK, so you’ll have to brave the Oxford Road but, where other local stalwarts clearly reheat chips fried at lunch time for dinner and leave fish under the heat lamps to slowly turn into piscine jerky, these are the best fish and chips I’ve had in central Reading.

Turning them into breakfast isn’t essential, but I assure you it’s far more exciting (and cheaper in the long run) than cereal and toast.


Contact Details

  • Telephone: 0118 958 2733
  • Address:
    The Jolly Fryer Fish & Chips
    265 Oxford Road,
    Reading, RG1 7PY
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Most recent user comments 6 of 6

   This is an embarrassment of a 'restaurant review', and more like an excuse for someone to rave about their thrilling blog. Editor...?!

However - the sentiment in the last few paragraphs is correct. I've travelled far and wide in search of the best fish and chips in Reading, and had concluded that I would have to travel either to Top Table in Earley or The Fat Fish in Twyford (they are just about still hot by the time I've driven back to West Reading!). Until The Jolly Fryer opened just down the road from me last year. HURRAH.

Crispy batter, crunchy chips, perfectly cooked fish. And the wedge of lemon and pot of home-made tartare sauce is a brilliant touch. Happy days :D
lnr
31/01/2012 at 14:53 Offensive or Inappropriate?
   maybe because it's the best fish n chips around?! have you tried them? you'll be in for a treat.

being from the north (the spritual mecca of decent cardiac arrest fayre), i have to say the quality of the fish and potato used for frying at this place is second to none for this area...the only other being close is the big blue up whitley wood way
jimbfc
17/01/2012 at 12:01 Offensive or Inappropriate?
   This must be one of the worst and least informative reviews I've ever read. I think we're talking about 9 lines of this drivel that is actually about the place it is supposed to be reviewing. The rest is taken up by some self-serving introverted navel-gazing about a third rate blog.

It would be nice to see some proper reviews here, but that might be too much to ask for?
SwMike, Reading
16/01/2012 at 16:01 Offensive or Inappropriate?
   Took ages, but I found it! http://watihad4breakfast.blogspot.com/2011/11/egg-chips-and-butter.html
Shelley Jenks
13/01/2012 at 16:47 Offensive or Inappropriate?
   Completely agree; and not only is margarine an inferior tasting product to butter, but there's increasing medical evidence that hydrogenated oils are the biggest cause of heart disease in the West. Changing the chemical structure of food can't be a good thing. Let's hope the Jolly Fryer uses natural vegetable oils.
Adrian Evans
12/01/2012 at 14:32 Offensive or Inappropriate?
   "best fish and chips I’ve had in central Reading." - It is WEST Reading Also it is a pure takeaway, how can this be a restaurant review?
Spanky
12/01/2012 at 12:09 Offensive or Inappropriate?

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